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April 25, 2005
TUESDAY DETAILS
MONDAY THE 26TH...surf is looking to bottom out for the week on tuesday as most shores will be chest to head high at best. the northerly buoys are showing some short period energy hanging around. the north shore may have some residual surf for the morning, but the situation may be pretty bleak. a new northwesterly swell is expected on wednesday with waves nearing the 4ft catagory. the aquatorial buoy is showing new signs of life with an abrupt boost of energy in the 17sec band which generally is the protocol for good south swells. tomorrow will see waves very similar to today in size and possible even less frequency. winds will be the usual trades possibly slightly lighter.
the north pacific is beginning to shut down as evidence of the smaller wave heights and larger gaps between swells. the next week will see two more swells with models pointing to a calm period in the north pacific. the following week will see the north pacific dominated by various high pressure cells that prevent the formation of comples low pressure systems which generally produce our waves here on the north shore. the next swell will arrive during the wee-hours of the morning of the 27th and surf will be near 4ft for the down patrollers on wednesday. the system associatd with this swell formed just west of the dateline and will speed rapidly toward the gulf of alaska producing moderate wavesheights due to the movement of the storm. the following swell will arrive on the morning of the 1st, however this swell will be slightly smaller as the fetch is over less water an the distance to the resource (wave generation) is slightly futher away. waves will be in the range of 3-4ft at the standout spots with the swell coming and giong over a period of three days max.
the southern shores are looking up with a fairly large system forming south of new zealand and moving northeasterly to just east of new zealand over a distance of 1400nm in the direction of hawaii. with seas reaching near 30ft and the winds acting on open agitated waters for a good 4 days this swell should be the first large south swell of the season. waves should arrive sometime on or near the 5th of may with possibly a classic late afternoon episode of forerunners in the 17-20sec energy bands. the swell will arrive straight out of the south so expect a little more boost with less islands for the swell to have to negotiate. the blog will be posted as details unfold.
Posted by megaprober at April 25, 2005 06:04 PM