May 30, 2005
surfing again
today was my return to the north shore from a three month hiatus for reasons i'd rather not go into and no it wasn't jail although it may have well been. life in hawaii for most of us without access to the surf just plain sucks. all i could do is read bud's blog reports and be bummed that i couldn't get in the waves and to make it worse all my friends were scoring over the last three months. funny 'cause toward the end i was actually getting real jaded about spots..sort of a snob if you will. today i was so stoked to see swell that when my friends paddled out at the rock pile i swam out without fins and just sucked it all in. i wasn't to keen on backsiding the rockpile when it was dredging over the reef and i hadn't touched my 6'4" in over four months. when i did finally surf i kept looking for that danm cinder block i was dragging around when i was paddling...neva did find it. so after getting stuck at the top of numerous waves and wobbling awkwardly on my fist stand ups around the halfway through the session my arms started coming 'round and i began to feel like i was surfing again. all i can say is there are few things in life that i can imagine are more torturous to me than living on oahu and not having the ability to get to the north shore. my debts are paid and lessons learned...see you out there.
Posted by megaprober at May 30, 2005 10:57 PM