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June 04, 2005
sunday
SUNDAY...increases in energy from reliable sources like the national weather buoys have given me new hope that the swell that originated in the tasman sea and pounded fuji might yet send us the in hawaii some swell. today waves were in the 2-3ft range with larger sets at select spots. the trend is for the the surf to bump up a notch further with sets a bit bigger and 3ft surf more consistent. the equatorial buoy is showing significant swell coming out 210deg which is the most likely the long lived episode from the tasman sea. the swell has been difficult to track due to the many islands it had to negotiate and the long distance travelled. the end result is that the swell has taken its time to fill in and arrived a little later than expected. tomorrow should be the peak day so get it while you can. winds moderate trades.
went west today after that juicy shot that bud posted. actually went to do panics first, but when i arrived and found the lineup empty i was both shocked and excited especially when a beatiful wave peeled with nobody on it. then i saw the tents...record scratch hand board contest. well then it was off to the west side and got out to yokes and scored shit...actually ended up bodysurfing it. onshore and mushy and i wouldn't recommend body surfing that wave as when you go over you get bounced around the reef rocks. finally ended up paddling out at minefields. funny thing because i always saw it and never really thought it was ridable and after paddling out there i'm pretty convinced that is still true. the outside sets just dredge and tons of heads reveal themselves so if you aren't on your game you may pay. tomorrow should still be on the way up as more energy is seen on the buoys so the i'm guessing that the surf should be around for a while.
Posted by megaprober at June 4, 2005 10:03 PM