September 01, 2005
9/2 panic attack
FRIDAY LABOR DAY WEEEKEND...sources are telling me that the current south swell has not peaked and that the largest surf may come in the morning between 6-12pm. the buoy charts are showing swell to peak out near 2.5ft around 2am this morning. given the travel time from buoy 2 i'd say that waves will arrive locally around 10am. these are simply models and this is a south swell so chances are that this timing of the peak of the episode is off somewhat. waves were definitely more consistent today than yesturday so that's a good sign. the call is for 2-4ft surf peaking around mid-day and also a reinforcement of the trades. winds sould start blowing from the east-northeast 10-20mph.
bodysurfed panics this morning and found 15 heads in the water at 630am. was really dissapointed and sweore off the spot as boardsurfers thought the law applied to everybody but them. reluctantly went back at 330pm and the waves were bigger and cleaner and only 6 heads. sprinted back to the car and then to the line-up and caught 6 great waves and 2 of which were bombs.
Posted by megaprober at September 1, 2005 10:13 PM