« 9/2 panic attack | Main | 9/5 »
September 03, 2005
9/4
SUNDAY...waves to keep breaking on southern shores right in the thick of it. surf should peak out from two directions tomorrow. surf is currently arriving from two sources 150deg and 200deg respectably and will keep southern shores in the 2-3 occ. 4ft range. the 200deg surf was generated from a deep southern source off of new zealand as as with typical south swells the surf will stay fairly inconsistent. the surf from the south-southeast will help keep the lulls in check hopefully as this swell is near the same height it could fill in during lulls from the south-southwest swell. rare is it that we get two south swells hitting at the same time. the call is for moderate surf with windy conditions due to the trades so the usual spots will be at maximum overload.
5-DAY OUTLOOK
surf episodes along the southern shore will be the primary focus of wave forecasting for this period. the present swell(s) will continue to fill in over night tonight the 3rd and remain unabaited tomorrow with surf in the 2-3 occ 4ft range. most spots should produce some surf as there may be a variety of spots that usually don't break as good on typcal south swells (170-210deg). the SSE swell is arriving from 150deg which is slightly out of our usual swell window so certain spots may reviel new sides to them. look for surf to slowly drop over the next two to three days as these swell move north of the islands.
the deep south pacific will ramin acive over the next five days, however, there will not be any real organized storms that will align well relative to hawaii. surf will stay about chest to waist high for until early next week. this is typical for the south shores as the south pacific remains rough enough to keep summer background swell in our vicinity. the summer background swell is term used locally to describe small surf that remains constant throughout the summer that is orignated from various unknown sources near the roaring fourties.
the trade winds are going to return as a large area of high pressure builds in the central northeast pacific for the next week. theses high pressures are resposible for the general flow of our trades and when they get real large the trades can start to howl. trades over the next five days will be blowing between 15-25mph with gusts near 30mph.
looking ahead...what may be the biggest south swell of the year if all goes well. models are showing a massive storm forming due south of hawaii about 3600mi. wave charts are showing impressive waveheights in excess of 45ft over a fairly large area. the storm will begin to form somtime next thursday so monitoring of this system will need to be done as these storms rarely live up to the models predictions. in any case if the system does pan out and goes as forecasted hawaii may see a true 6ft south swell.
Posted by megaprober at September 3, 2005 11:38 PM