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September 18, 2005
rr's
been watching the my resources all day and had a hunch that a swell was going to show up before sundown. tricked some friends into my frame of mind and got them to go along for the ride. after some intense gaming on the play station we made our move and surfed a newly arrived swell out of 314deg. waves got overhead and came through with some punch. surfed rr's and all of us got dragged across the reef. one left with a gash in the hand. still it was better than windblown sui's with 1-3ft surf and bunch of goons.
MONDAY...surf picked up on sunday evening out of 315deg. the surf was generated by a small storm northwest of the islands about three days ago. the storm never really reached a powerful state, however, winds of 30-40mph did generate a swell that rolled in late in the afternoon sunday. waves jumped from weak and gutless windswell out of the northeast to powerful groundswell at select spots featuring shallow reefs and steep rises. the beach breaks seemed to be picking up the swell. look for the swell to peak overnight and begin a quick decline tomorrow and peter out by the end of the day in the 1-2ft range with slightly larger sets.
Posted by megaprober at September 18, 2005 09:20 PM