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October 12, 2005
north
WEDNESDAY...large surf is on the way for tomorrow. a large storm northwest of hawaii has generated the first winter swell of the season. as of this writing the swell has travelled the distance and is currently pinging buoy 1. the swell energy is rapidly increasing and the wave heights have shot up over the last two hours. the swell is also registering under the waimea buoy and it wouldn't be a far reach to assume that if you were sitting out in the lineup at sunset you might be a little nervous as every set seems bigger than the last. the call is for a building powerful swell to fill in overnight and greet the morning chargers with true mean 6-8ft surf and most likely 10ft streetsweepers every 20min. most spots will be maxed and conditions will look out of control at some spots. conditions iffy in the morning as winds are whipping around and rain squalls are the norm. waves may clean up as the day moves on and some spots may offer some serious adrenaline rushes.
Posted by megaprober at October 12, 2005 06:57 PM