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October 05, 2005
that's the point
went on a good ole fashioned surf hunt with my good friends joe and borsct. decided it was time to check out the sacred spot and although the lulls were long when the sets came it was both challenging and thrilling. i pussed out on two waves which i have come to realize that more training is needed in order tocharge up to expectations. joe charged hardest and he easily won the heat with both most waves and biggest wave. i wasn't all shoulder hopping though as i did score one of the best and longest waves i've ever gotten out there and by the end i left the spot feeling i conquered new territory and will be ready for next years assult. waves 4-5ft with 6ft bombs that woke everybody up. my biggest wave 5ft joe's i'll give him the 6ft claim. some wave had sick pits that nobody seemed to really want or go after...as usual for that spot.
THURSDAY...swell has arrived and filled in along southern shores of the hawaiian islands. the current swell is 3-5ft out of 190deg with primary energy in the 16-20sec bands. the swell, in my opinion, was not as large as expected and came shore by about a foot in overall groundswell size. my guess is that the main swath was slightly east and that the storm never reached the size neccessary to produce large enough surf to live up to the WW3 model outputs. most areas got 4ft sets although this swell seemed to have painfully long lulls. tomorrow will see the swell begin to drop as it will peak overnight. surf should be 3-5ft in the morning and possibly may be larger than this afternoon as i have a hunch this one is a little behind schedual. winds will be moderate to strong trades.
Posted by megaprober at October 5, 2005 10:34 PM