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October 06, 2005
the wave
surfed a new spot near my work. place breaks on only the big ones and aside from platic bags getting caught on my legs a few times it was better than expected. big waaaaayyy outside peak with only 5ft or bigger able to break. first few were fun sizable drops, but never really saw the wall yet. finally went to the outside peak and waited for the one to come. it finally did and after windmilling for the wave it finally let me in. the drop was steep and i was curled up on the way over the ledge, but the wieght on the front worked and i unfolded on the way down and bottom turned and saw the pit bowing concave. came off the bottom and pulled up and under did the arm drag to slow down and hung close only to pull my fist out of the face and blow onto the shoulder. you know that old story. maybe the wave of the summer??? north swells on the way
FRIDAY...south swell finally filled in and arrived a little later than i expected and lived up to the size i was predicting. the swell topped out with a good near 5ft open ocean swell with waves of real refraction hitting near 8ft at select spots on the largest sets. surf should trend down and be a reversal of wednesday. surf should be 3-4ft solid at most spots and 5ft sets at the standouts. waves will return to being less than consistent. winds will be trades. north shore should be in the head high range with crossed up ineterference patterns from the powerful tradewind swell wrapping in at select spots.
Posted by megaprober at October 6, 2005 10:26 PM