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December 29, 2005
12/30
FRIDAY...surf on the way back up to large levels for tomorrow. a beauty of a west-northwest ground swell will fill in along northern and western shores. as far as swells go this one is ideal for those that like it big, but not crazy. this swell was formed by a storm that as about 1800nm out from the islands 310deg on the compass. this traspires to a swell that was created at an optimum distance away. over 2000nm out, lulls become time consuming and under 1500nm the waves don't have the time to be fine tuned resulting in lumpy surf. this swell should fill in during the day tomorrow at a fairly quick pace. buoy 1 has just started to show the new swell in the very long period energy band of 20-22sec. waves should start pumping under buoy 1 tonight and greet dawn patrolers with rising surf in the 8-10ft range with larger sets. surf should continue to build all day and max out some time saturday. winds should be epic for the morning.
Posted by megaprober at December 29, 2005 08:57 PM