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December 12, 2005

calm before the storm

TUESDAY...surf will bottom out with waves coming down to the 2-3ft range with occasional 4 footers at select spots and even then that's being generous. this really should be considered the calm before the storm so to speak. large surf is on the way for later this week, but that is something to be discussed in another paragraph. high pressure has moved in north of the islands and will keep the trades blowing for another day or so. the final phase of the long lived swell episode that provided surf all weekend will come to an end with wave periods dropping to 10sec and waveheights lowering to head high. all in all a pretty mediocre day on the north shore with strong and gusty winds and small surf...only the pros can make the surf look better than it really is.

Posted by megaprober at December 12, 2005 10:02 PM

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