« big friday | Main | 12/10 »
December 08, 2005
pipe masters
FRIDAY...waves are on the way as indicated by tonights buoy readings. buoy 1 has been firing all day with energy readings nearing the 40m^2/Hz mark. this basically means, i believe after much research, that in the open ocean this is a measurement of the amount of water that is lifted or moved by a wave for a given time period (wave period). so in lamen terms this swell is able to lift or move nearly 40 square meters of water per wave period (on average). so obviously the larger the swell the more water lifted. anyway with such large power readings the interpetation is that the swell is here and by the morning surf should be in the 8-10ft range with larger sets. with all the west in the swell it the pipe masters is likely a go because wind conditions will cooperate.
Thursday night update.
swell showing strongly on the northern buoys. actually the swell or the first phase of the swell jumped last night and filled in this morning with 3-5ft surf and wave periods of 14-16sec. these wave periods stayed as the primary energy readings until this evening when wave periods jumped up to 20sec. this was initially thought to be the pattern as the first phase of the swell had shorter wave periods and was quickly overun by the much larger swell right on its heels. look for 10-12ft surf or friday as the new swell should be in full force by noon.
Posted by megaprober at December 8, 2005 08:56 PM