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December 24, 2005
the sewer
went west today and surfed one of fav waves. looks like i may have surfed the same spot as neo. was by myself the whole time. waves were a little bumpy, but they had some punch and felt the direction was close to ideal for that spot. the only gnarly part about the whole experience was the people living on the beach there. i've never seen it that bad...in fact i parked somewhere else and walked back becuse i wasn't sure of the outcome. later went up the coast and watched 3rd dip and man i've never seen guys go for it like they were at that spot. totally late and verticle drops super deep and a few impossible barrels. i alway wanted to have a go at that spot, but no way today was far to hardcore for my tastes...maybe another day when i can drop a wave without fear of getting raked and dragged. some some mean eat its and how they came up unscathed was beyond me.
SUNDAY...surf to drop for christmas day. the swell is onthe way out and surf will likely be in the 6-8ft range for the day. the swell has passed and there is going to be a breather in the surf as we wait for the next brute of a swell to start arriving. the new swell may reach the islands by tomorrow afternoon as forerunners start to feel the reefs. wave periods in the extreme energy bands of 20-25sec may start to show up tomorrow late in the day so if your out on northern shores don't be surprised to see set waves come out of nowhere in the solid 6ft range. winds should be favorable for the day as they will be light trades.
Posted by megaprober at December 24, 2005 08:55 PM