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January 09, 2006
jocko's
finally decided it was time for jocko's. this wave, in my opinion, will make you want to retire from surfing if you are out on the wrong day. i've been fairly lucky at jocko's as i eyeball it very speculatively before attempting a session out there. the current is a restless beast that does nothing to improve your posistion as set of the day is approaching and the waves will beat you senseless. the bottom line is you need confidence and strength to surf this spot and you just might have a little fun...otherwise you'll be scampering and whimpering as you get drilled. anyway i felt it was a good size to test myself and see what i was made of. did all the swims at makapu'u on rough days and lack of alchohol and endless paddling at select outer reefs allow me to actually enjoy myself? waves were 4-5ft and coming deep and wide. the current was there as i remembered it and just for kicks i surfed it on a board that was too small. the result for me was some late mean drops and lots of swirly surfing as the wave is too much for a tiny 6'3". i was stoked to have it alone for the first hour and the time allowed me to establish some rhythm. i went on some waves i thought i'd go down on and made them and just to be sure i swam in against the current to see what it's like. as i know that today was small and playful and others are sketchy and violent, i feel that i may put jocko's back on my list of possibilities and this time i'll mean it.
TUESDAY...another day of windy surf in paradise as the trade continue to howl. look for the surf to drop slightly further and swing more notherly as this episode fizzles. the strong trades will allow for some small wrappage at select north favoring reef. the call is for surf in the 2-4ft range with fair conditions and possibly minor heads in the lineup.
Posted by megaprober at January 9, 2006 10:08 PM