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December 28, 2006
brute strength
FRIDAY...a massive northwest swell has arrived and will continue with large outer reef surf for most of the day friday.
a brute of a swell moved through the islands today that was generated by a large storm system in the nortwest pacific. the storm formed on monday rapidly gaining strength and moving in the direction of hawaii. packing winds of near 50mph the system moved over already roughened waters toward hawaii adding energy to the prexisting swell. with wind action on the swell for two days and in the direction hawaii to within 800nm, this is the ingredients neccessay for giant swells.
buoy 1 started to register energy in the wee-hours of the morning and power, energy and waveperiods all rapidly rose. energy readings at buoy 1 have registered near 120 megahertz per meter squared which in simple english is very high on the readings. today the waves seemed to have peaked near 22ft at 17sec. this indicates that the swell will likely peak overnight and be on the way down for the morning. wave enegy has fluctuated during the day possibly indicating that there may be more than one pulse to the swell.
the call is for sets near 20ft tonight and 12-15ft by morning with the odd rouge set in the morning. conditions are likely to improve from what they were today, but not until later in the day. winds slowing down, but easterly in the 1025mph range.
Posted by megaprober at December 28, 2006 06:48 PM