April 23, 2008
THURSAY...new northwesterly swell to start to fill in around mid-day.
recent buoy reports are indicating that the north shore will begin a gradual rise throughout the day thursday. buoy 1 is already registering predominant energy in the 15sec range which should reach the islands by noon on thursday. by the afternoon waves near 3ft are possible at select reefs. the only deterring factor may be sea breezes that develop in the afternoon.
winds will be calm creating epic conditions for the morning. the only question is how long before those sea breezes kick in.
Posted by megaprober at 11:02 PM
April 20, 2008
sounds good to me
got three days of great surf...took friday off brought the chick up to pipe and found it with four guys 2-4ft and good westerly swell. she's a new one and claimed to like the beach so i test drove her beach love. turns out she stayed an the beach for nearly five hours and swam out at pipe and watched me go at it with some swim fins. had four little sessions with one being on the board. great stuff. hadn't been out at good fun pipe in a while and even more with all the waves i got.
saturday was a long session at the sacred spot "up" the way past the usual spots. love the rocky beach entry....paddled out with my bud who just got back from japan. waves were thumping 3-4ft solid with some bombs coming through. good mean session with late drops on a small board that was like paddling a brick. tried to pull in whenever possible but the only real claim was one steep one that i fell off mid face and got barreled going backside on my back sliding down the face.
sunday...same spot as above much smaller, much more sore and burnt from the previous day. still some fun ones to be had.
funny thing about friday's lying surf report. "north shores 1-2 occ 3...south shore 2-4 with 5ft bombs, town the place to be...it's firing...get there now!"...maybe so but the north shore was easily that big at select spots. that's was great. !-!
Posted by megaprober at 06:24 PM