Hawaii Surf Forecast Blog

fun new swell in september

went up to the north and west...depended on the surf forecasting skills to guide me. found a new swell arriving at the claw with 2-3ft surf with pure glass and ended up having a fun session for three hours me and rich with great waves sharing and trading. went and had a beer with joe and went back and found 3-5 foot surf with fun conditions...more fun than i should be allowed.

great south swell near the end of summer

SUNDAY...surf from the current south swell should continue.

on saturday surf reached near the six foot level at select reefs. this swell was generated by a powerful storm off new zealand that provided tahiti with surf near the fifteen foot threshold. given the optimum direction of the swell and little in the way of blockage, it was a good bet the swell would be large when it did arrive and deliver it did.

surf should start to trend down by late saturday and recent buoy observations are indicating that the swell is starting to drop.

look for solid surf near four feet at most spots with the odd larger set with a general trend down for the day.

winds should be good for the day with the light to moderate trades.

fun surf to be had at the cabin on saturday afternoon and only saturday afternoon. got there surf was starting to break in the head high range max with marginal conditions...stayed there all day as the waves just got better and better...by dusk there were overhead waves to be had...even some blood spilled in the lineup due to reef encounters. couldn't believe the luck...friends, waves, chatter.

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logs in August
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AUGUST LOGS

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logs in August
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WEDNESDAY...continued small waves for hump day and little change in the forecast period.

this week looks like the august doledrums that we have been expecting and have since avoided.

southern shores will likely see some ridable waves in the 1-3 ft range at the shallower reefs otherwise expect small conditions on the decline.

eastern shores will see small windswell in the 2ft max range at select spots and really nothing larger will be expected as the trades will not be sufficient to produce large enough waves for sandy's or mak's to be any real fun for those that like waves overhead.

looking ahead the north pacific is attempting to sputter to life with small swells generated by meagar storms near the aleutians. look for a small system nearly 2000nm out with 25-40mph winds over the next day or so to send a small swell arriving on thursday in the waist to chest range at select reefs.

southern shores will see some improvement later in the week from a system off the coast of new zealand with waves arriving in the 3ft top range on thurday.

potential sources for the south and north shore are looking better later this week with storm activity in tasman sea, winds off of californina (for aver a week (ne swell)) and action possibly in the north pacific near the aleutians...as always pray for typhoons to go extra-tropical off of japan.

return of the cast....

MONDAY...small waves are the call for the start of the work week.

the bump on northern shores that brough nice waves to northern exposed reefs will be gone by monday as it was a major dissapointment on sunday to see hardly a waist high wave to be had after such fun overhead waves saturday afternoon.

southern shores will likely see some ridable waves in the 1-3 ft range at the shallower reefs otherwise expect small conditions on the decline.

southern shores will see some improvement later in the week from a system off the coast of new zealand with waves arriving in the 3ft top range on thurday.

THURSAY...new northwesterly swell to start to fill in around mid-day.

recent buoy reports are indicating that the north shore will begin a gradual rise throughout the day thursday. buoy 1 is already registering predominant energy in the 15sec range which should reach the islands by noon on thursday. by the afternoon waves near 3ft are possible at select reefs. the only deterring factor may be sea breezes that develop in the afternoon.

winds will be calm creating epic conditions for the morning. the only question is how long before those sea breezes kick in.

sounds good to me

got three days of great surf...took friday off brought the chick up to pipe and found it with four guys 2-4ft and good westerly swell. she's a new one and claimed to like the beach so i test drove her beach love. turns out she stayed an the beach for nearly five hours and swam out at pipe and watched me go at it with some swim fins. had four little sessions with one being on the board. great stuff. hadn't been out at good fun pipe in a while and even more with all the waves i got.

saturday was a long session at the sacred spot "up" the way past the usual spots. love the rocky beach entry....paddled out with my bud who just got back from japan. waves were thumping 3-4ft solid with some bombs coming through. good mean session with late drops on a small board that was like paddling a brick. tried to pull in whenever possible but the only real claim was one steep one that i fell off mid face and got barreled going backside on my back sliding down the face.

sunday...same spot as above much smaller, much more sore and burnt from the previous day. still some fun ones to be had.

funny thing about friday's lying surf report. "north shores 1-2 occ 3...south shore 2-4 with 5ft bombs, town the place to be...it's firing...get there now!"...maybe so but the north shore was easily that big at select spots. that's was great. !-!

WEDNESDAY...very large surf from the west-northwest in store for late in the day on wednesday.

a new large west-northwest swell will start to arrive locally starting in the afternoon on wednesday. a powerful system packing winds in excess of 50mph generated a powerful groundswell in close proximity of hawaii. the system formed on sunday and rapidly deepened generating strong winds and high seas near 40ft on the opne ocean scale.

expect a rapid rise in surf wedensday afternoon with sets nearing 10-12ft locally. outer reefs should start to crack due to the long period initial swell of near 20sec. winds should back off from seabreezes late in the day.

THURSDAY...still stormy and rainy conditions with surf in the 3-5ft range at most spots.

the current north-nortwest swell will continue as the storm that generated the swell remains north of the islands. due to the storms close proximity waves will be disorganized and with close wave intervals. conditions will resemble those that have been around for the last few days since the start of the new year. winds are not going to help things as they are going to be strong and gusty out of the east-northeast.

THURSDAY...still stormy and rainy conditions with surf in the 3-5ft range at most spots.

MONDAY...very large surf for the start of the week.

a new northweest swell that was generated fairly close to the islands will crank up surf later tonight into monday. bouy 1 has already started to fire as of the time of this writing and best guess right noe is that surf will be solid fifteen feet by day break. the unfortunate side of all this is that the usual big wave spots may not have favorabele as winds due to the passage of a strong cold front in the vicinity of the islands.

look for solid 15ft surf along the north shore at day break with surf remaining large all day...possibly peaking sometime mid-day. winds will be westerly and possible go northerly by the end of the day.

massive waves in store

FRIDAY...rising new swell from the west-northwest that will be the precurser of a much larger swell that may arrive near dusk.

a new long period swell will fill in out 315deg relative to oahu during the day that will be followed by a much larger swell. the swell arriving near dusk will push waves to near the warning level of 25ft along the north shore and 15ft along the west shore. the system resposible was a powerful storm that set up just west of the dateline and has moved in the dirction of oahu. surf was generated by two sources, first in the initial stages of the system farther away and then later as the storm moved much closer to the islands.

look for rapidly rising surf near the end of the day with surf starting to break on the outer reefs and pushing hard and washing out most of the usual breaks. winds may be variable thus seabreezes may develop in the afternoon.

TUESDAY...surf will hang in there in the 3-5ft range at select spots aolg northern and eastern shores

primary swell is registering from all the north-northeast on the northern buoys. the waimea buoy is showing significant wave energy in the 10ft range with 10-14sec wave period. surf along the north and east shores will likely drop somewhat on tuesday and bottom out near 4ft at most locations before another large north-northwest swell moves in arounds mid-week. conditions may not be favorable along the north shore due to the unusual northerly component in the winds. eastern shores are likely to continue to see larger than usual surf due to the easterly componenet in the swell.

WEDNESDAY...surf will be on the rise slightly along northern shores as a small northwest swell arrives out of 330deg with 15sec periods.

the swell was generated by a small system that formed south of the aleutain islands and spun off quickly into the gulf of alaska. past weather charts are showing seas of near 20ft generated by winds of 35mph. with a given travel distance of over 1500nm, there is a good chance that waves will be small and barely ridable at most of the deeper reefs.

south shores will continue with declining surf in the 2-4ft range from the large storm system last week that generated the large south swell from sunday through thursday.

locally the kona low is continuing to move southwest allowing for one more day of weak winds early in the morning possibly giving way to seabreezes.

look for 1-2ft surf along northern shores and 2-3ft surf along southern shores with smooth and glassy conditions in the morning.